There is always a statement to be made by Miuccia Prada. Sometimes socio-political references, sometimes an underlying metaphysical statement is to be had. Maybe many of us look into more than what is there, but Prada is a show that always has substance, no? Often times innately ugly, many times not beautifully perceived to the eye right away, there is a beauty to Miuccia’s designs that are genius. Various ideas are blended into Ms. Prada’s SS 2014 show.
Murals are at the forefront of focus. Possibly not so underlying, though, is Miuccia forcing her designs to represent a sort of feminine quality: I am woman, hear me roar.
There are bras that have no functionality at all on the exterior of coats to bejewelled garments mixed with murals of women. Reference after reference, we would say that it is all very blatant and design of high-intelligence.
Last but not least, Grace Mahary walked. Referential design be damned, Grace is THE bad bitch on the runway.
While at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in NYC for the Fall 2012 collections, someone got snapped for his killer street style. Who you ask? Me, of course. This was my last day and was running out of options to wear. Let’s just say that the vintage rabbit fur was my essential for my trip and everything else came together naturally. Now, where else am I on the web? I demand to know.
A lot has happened in my brief absence. The great Whitney Houston passed away and I worked Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. I can’t speak upon it, but I will say that my experiences were absolutely awe-inspiring and am already for the Spring 2013 shows in September. While there, I did have several fabulous wardrobe moments that were captured by various photographers’ lenses. Will be sharing those when they pop up in the webiverse.
Let’s keep moving on and see what there is to come.
How I’ll always cherish Balmain. The label is so sexy and highly detailed. What woman doesn’t want to look this sexy on a night out on the town? You tell me, because dammit, if I were a woman and could afford Balmain’s pricey tags, it would be my first choice. Cleavage + Legs = Balmain, the equation that only Balmain can do best, my friends.
This season, Christophe Decarnin, kept the exaggerated shoulders in play, a trend that is actually out the door, but it’s fine with me. The shoulder is still hot here. From my favorite century in fashion, the seventeenth century to the nineties, there is a mixed historical influence from brocade, gold lamé, laced boots, pantsuits, and paillettes, Decarnin covered it all, and oh so well.
I’ve fallen for the elaborate purple and gold dress that Sasha fiercely came down the runway in. It’s a dress one could only dream of. Purple fur that opened the show, swoon. The rest of the fur, to die for. Oh, Balmain, must you tease me with such striking wonders? The military inspired jackets are kept in trend and yet I still haven’t gotten my hands on one to this day. Something similar will due. I believe that is my goal for when I shop in Chicago for spring break. Must find the perfect military jacket.
Onto the models. Love. From Anja Rubik, Sasha Pivovarova, Magdalena Frackowiak, and Maryna Linchuk, the casting was on point. I would have loved to see Jessica Stam or even Karlie Kloss working this intense line, but I think the cast along with the clothes carried on with similar themes from seasons before. Balmain receives my round of applause, although maybe next season we’ll see something completely different. Eagerly awaiting.
I went through everything Dries Van Noten put down the runway and I’m in love. It is a beautiful love affair indeed. There were varying silhouettes, muted color palettes, silky florals, and much more. There was a military theme that I spotted with the olive greens and style, but there seemed to be somewhat of a contradiction that I really enjoyed. There were these full skirts and dresses that were mixed in that were a play and variation of a 1947 silhouette, specifically Dior’s “New Look,” that was quite humorous in that his famous line came out after WWII. Don’t you just die for that grey blazer and over-sized black sweater? Class. He went on to continue playing with 50s and 60s silhouettes that come off precise, classic, and reinvented.
The teal and blues that seem to be inspired from a peacock and fuchsia bring interesting color into many of the looks. The statements are feminine and contradict the menswear elements that were displayed before. These looks are initially striking, but are quite relaxed when the added elements of a sweater, a hair or two out of place, and the olive and camel mixed in.
The slouchy pants, essentially jodhpur-like, are slouchy and exactly on point. These are pants I have never even cared for, but adding bits and pieces of military into the scheme and mixing it all together, well, you get my point. And that camel coat and crocodile tote mixed with the pants…yes, please.
Meanwhile, can we talk the gold. The gold is so exactly how I would want it in my wardrobe. Not too flashy but so on cue, that you can’t resist to stair. Gold jackets and gold dresses can either look too flashy or too “I’m going out for New Years Eve” and I’m not sure how I feel about that. Meanwhile, Dries Van Noten seemed to have pull that off with so much style and I wonder where I can attain my own gold jacket. Anyone?
Monastery-chic is how I can only describe Givenchy’s fall line for men. I’m in adoration for the skinny, black suit trousers. I need a pair and immediately. The whole line had a religious theme. While I choose to ignore that theme, I focus more on what is presented to me. Givenchy had varying looks of coats. I love the over-sized wool coats that have interesting shapes. My favorite of the coats and jackets is a specific blazer that has black piping matched with an over-sized shirt underneath. This play on a tailored jacket paired with a shirt that is longer with sharp lines and the skinny trouser is magnificent. The whole fascination of the look is just that. It is entirely thought-provoking. The fabric is all black, but the silhouette changes from the average suit look and is quite admirable.
Moving on to the sandals, I first thought of them as something I would never wear. Does that make them ugly? I don’t know. I began to view them with all of the looks. I rather see their appeal and appreciate them with the skinny trouser, but up close I don’t truly love the look. Maybe with different leather and format.
So, here we are Givenchy. You bring us the skirt-short. Very intriguing indeed. While we see Marc Jacobs always in uniform of a skirt and boots, are skirt-shorts and male skirts a trend worth seeing? I’ll admit, if I were walking to class in one their would be lots of talk. If I wore one in my home town, I might be pelted with an abundance of stones. Seeing this play off in NYC, London, Paris, and Milan…I can really imagine this trend taking off. This excites me greatly. It would be very interesting to see what I could match to make this the perfect look. Marc Jacobs makes this work in his personal style by adding the boots to give it enough manliness and pulling it off with a masculinity that is enviable. So my judgment is…yes. I like it enough to see where it could go. It also gives me information and material to add in a future post coming really soon on masculinity vs. femininity, so stay tuned. On to the next one!
Since I’m waiting for photos from the Prada show, I will go back to NYC’s fashion week and discuss Proenza Schouler. Co-designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, make Proenza Schouler still the hottest high-end line around. The duo generally design youthful lines that any fashionista/o would kill to get their hands on.
This time around, Proenza Schouler did not disappoint. Overall, what we saw presented was a school girl image paired with thigh-highs, killer heels, and graffiti patterns that break what could have been stereotypical into something new, fresh, and provoking.
Following the one item that has been in multiple shows this year, their usage of fur is absolutely beautiful. The coloring is quite stunning and ravaging. I wonder where I could find a list of designers who use faux-fur instead of the alternative. We also saw high-wasted jeans again, but I wonder if any mere mortal would be able to pull them off…