I’ll be reading my Chanel: A Woman of Her Own biography while clutching my pearls in bouclé tweed.
May you continue being one of the most influential designers long after your death, and inspiring girls on Facebook (who don’t know anything about Chanel past the name and the earrings their daddy bought them) to post your quotes.
Our favorite times of the year always include the runways. Menswear just completed and some of our favorites include the pops of color at Bottega Veneta, the layers at Balmain, perfect coats and skinny trousers at Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana’s sequined jackets, the brilliance of Dries Van Noten, the Amish and David Lynch inspirations at Louis Vuitton, and I’m always a sucker for Lanvin and YSL.
The Thierry Mugler show, renamed Mugler, had a lot of hype with Nicola Formichetti , but as someone else had pointed out, it took three people to create that. A lot of the hype surrounding the show was from the soundtrack, a new release and remixed song from Lady Gaga. After all of the hype, I and many, were thoroughly disappointed by what was brought to the table. The masculine take on pearls were the highlight to me, but the rest could be thrown in the garbage to be honest. It was more spectacle and show and in the end bland. Not that I was expecting anything different.
Now to the glorious haute couture. Monday started off terribly boring and as the week progressed everything got more exciting. Galliano’s drama for Dior was ever present. Although it seems he’s been designing the same thing for quite a while now, his detailing is beautiful and the silhouettes are referential to the New Look and innovative within themselves. Chanel was a crystal dream, but do I really need to speak upon Lagerfeld’s behalf? Armani Privé was more futuristic than Mr. Armani has ever been, but no matter how far he goes in the future, it still seems slightly tired. Maybe it’s safe to say Anne Hathaway won’t be wearing Armani Privé at the Oscars. She’s co-hosting, so I’m sure she’ll have numerous changes, but it’s probably a safe bet that it won’t be in one of these.
Moving on. Valentino continued to grow with slightly less ruffles and lighter designs while Elie Saab rolled out another show of beautiful, yet yawn-inducing gowns, all with red carpet potential. Academy Awards viewers, if you pay attention to the red carpet, please place money somewhere that an Elie Saab gown will make it on the red carpet more than once. At least they’re pretty and not Oscar de la Renta. Finally, my beloved Givenchy. I don’t care what anyone ever says about Givenchy, but the detailing is so intricate and exquisite, there’s more to appreciate than really meets the eye. One of the dresses with the red, hand-cut sequins took roughly 6,000 hours to create. The Japanese-influenced collection makes my mouth salivate and is such a fluid evolution from last couture season. Swoon.
1) Could do without the Canadian Tuxedo and the vast majority of the platform sandals.
2) I don’t think I can ever find an ounce of love for Carmen Kass, and maybe that’s half the reason why I could never fully appreciate Michael Kors, but that ridiculous, apricot feathered frock is making me salivate, not to mention the abundant usage of black feathers. I adore them.
Critically acclaimed film director Martin Scorsese (Taxi Driver, Raging Bull, Gangs of New York) takes the helm for Chanel’s latest male fragrance campaign, Bleu de Chanel, starring Gaspard Ulliel. The fashion film is all Scorsese with the soundtrack of, you guessed it, The Rolling Stones. The full advertisement film will debut during the MTV VMAs. This is as exciting as when David Lynch did “Lady Blue” for Dior in May with Marion Cottilard.
Directed by Martin Scorsese
Music: “She Said Yeah” by The Rolling Stones”
Album: December’s Children (And Everybody’s)
Every time I see this cover of the next issue of Vogue Italia shot by Steven Meisel, it reminds me of how hilarious Chanel Fall/Winter 10/11 is with those little eskimo and silly Ewok furs that Karl sent down the runway with that real iceberg he had shipped from who knows where from. A life without Lagerfeld is a life I do not wish to see.
I get a text from Emma last week at work asking me what couture meant. She told me not to laugh in her face, so I gave her the simple definition. Haute couture literally means “high sewing” and in a more broader sense, “fashion”, yet it nerves me and the people who are actually involved in the higher industry for it to be defined anything but “high sewing” and the French connection it has.
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law. Those that are a part and follow the strict guidelines of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, can call themselves haute couture. You must be a member essentially to be named that. The first couturier being Charles Frederick Worth in the 19th Century. Bringing back my class of history of costume. The term is widely misused with prêt-à-porter lines, which is just french for ready-to-wear and other high-art fields. I rolled my eyes at the show titled “Jersey Couture”, because none of the clothes are couture clothes, just the fact that they may be custom or whatever. I hate broad definitions. Haute couture is the top of the top of the fashion industry and sets standards that slowly flow down. Standards include:
– Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
– Have an atelier in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
– Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
Of course, you must be a member, but I’m not sure how they go about doing so. Some of the official members/foreign are:
Anne Valérie Hash
Jean Paul Gaultier
Of course there are correspondent and foreign members, but these are the people that create it and are members. The concept is a part of history for Paris and fashion, exclusivity, and the highest form of the art.
Diane, what can’t you love about this woman? Most know her from Inglourious Basterds, but many also know her through her keen fashions and superb sense of style that is unmatchable. She has such high tastes from Chanel – says Karl Lagerfeld is like a father – to Haute Couture and the most casual wear, yet is always so perfectly edited from top to bottom. Sometimes her style can raise questions, but there never is a question for taste. Recently she has really caught my attention, not to mention the whole fashion universe’s eye, with all of her exquisite numbers she wears on and off the runway.
We begin a few weeks ago in St. Tropez. The night before Chanel unveiled the resort collection, Diane sported a beautiful Chanel number paired with a hat to make it seem like the perfect casual ensemble. How relaxed yet cool does she look? During the actual runway show, Miss Kruger wowed in a Chanel Pre-Fall 2010 minidress adorned in black paillettes. The formal model is sexy as an obvious Chanel darling. I think her best accessory to date is her beau, Joshua Jackson, or Pacey if you will. He’s turned into such a GQ man as of late. Something is rubbing off and it’s something that I need to steal. Perfection is what it all is. Perfection.
Street style is something that is very interesting and different for everyone. Diane mastered it like it was effortless. What I’m sure is J.CREW, she pairs it with a hat again and Lanvin heels as she goes from shopping to wherever. The skirt is cute and the pop of purple makes the outfit exciting, while the heels bring a slight edge to the feminine and whimsy with the gold chain.
Now to the Cannes’s ensembles that got endless press. My first choice is the Jason Wu gown at Palme d’Or Award Closing Ceremony during Cannes Film Festival. The custom fuchsia gown is stunning and I don’t care to hear opinions stating otherwise. The black bodice is pretty with the lace and bead details, and this is definitely a gown to wear to make a statement. It comes across so strong, a bit quirky, and highly feminine. I love the gown on this woman! Moving on at Cannes, you can’t overlook the Giambattista Valli Fall 2010 dress. While the hair isn’t the best statement to make for any occasion, the dress is just absolutely beautiful and stunning. The bodice makes the whole dress with the beading and block flowers. Add the lower 60s pink half, and the look is so chic and wonderful. While most could not pull this off, instances like these excite me. Why just wear the same old boring dress? Have fun and play. This is what fashion is all about.
There is one more occasion that really caught my eye. This one other occasion is when she is wearing Lanvin Fall 2010. This is such a while dress, it’s ridiculous. Granted it’s not for everyone’s tastes, but it’s beautiful nonetheless. All of the detail and beading is fabulous and the fabric is interesting within itself. I love it. She pairs it with the same Lanvin shoes she wore shopping, yet this time they’re black. Stunning. Wow factor. Also, she pairs herself with the cutest little man. They look so good together. Makes you just jealous deep down inside.
Oh, Linds…once again you get to sport an ever so awesome ankle monitor. I love that she shows up in court (about time) trying to be conservative, yet still showing some cleavage. Stay classy, Lilo. I know, I’d hate people interfering in my life as well, but you were ordered to probation and you need to follow those conditions. Meanwhile, I like your pants and pumps combination. Almost looked fashionable and professional.
I’m expecting some very chic ankle bracelet moments in the coming months. I just remember that summer (images below) where she went to those celebrity beach parties and wore the bracelet around like it was nothing and clearly a fashion statement. Luckily, I’m certain Lagerfeld will not be presenting designer versions on Chanel runways again anytime soon. Get your act together, fire crotch.
St. Tropez was the selected location for Chanel Resort 2011. It was definitely a blast from 70s past. The usual bouclé tweed jackets were ever present along with staples from the 70s that included crocheted dresses and caftans. The cast of models from the film Lagerfeld made to preview this collection were all there, strutting barefoot down the road by a roadside café that onlookers sat and watched. It’s nice to see Karolina Kurkova modeling runway again. I really enjoy her being back. I bet VS regrets dropping her a year or so ago. Also, did anyone really care about Crystal Renn and Georgia May Jagger being cast in the show? The only thing plus-size about Crystal is her boobs and wasn’t it about time for Georgia May to hit up the runways anyway. Another failed attempt to change standards, so I feel the designers should just stop trying and let it evolve. I’m tired of hearing Crystal Renn’s name and then a focus on shape and her being a plus-sized model.
Resort collections are really hit and miss with me. They can be either boring or effortlessly cool. Chanel here capture ugly and effortlessly cool in this collection. I’m not going to lie. A majority are really beautiful pieces, and I really loved the menswear, but overall there were some really fug pieces that need to go and stay where the 70s birthed them. I enjoy the florals, the denim, and the sweaters, especially the green one that Baptiste wears. Sexy.
When there were accessories, there were some hot shades, a few bags, and some sandals. I think Lagerfeld could have completed some of the looks with some really cute must-have sandals instead of having the majority of the models traipsing around barefoot, even if his three male models were absolutely stunning doing so. What I did notice is that he brought these gold, wedge gladiators down the street runway. I honestly thought gladiators were coming to an end up so high in the clothing chain, but nope, they keep coming and actually work well with the looks.
I did really enjoy this collection, but I feel some of the elements could have been updated more. I know a lot of sources could disagree, but we don’t need pieces straight from the decade. Bring them out and update them a bit more and bring in a whole new level of Riviera-chic to the table.
Did he have to put the ugly clothes on Crystal Renn? I’m just saying. Take a “plus-size” model, yeah whatever, and then put her in the ugly clothes. Oh, well. Needless to say I didn’t like Crystal Renn until this week, so I should probably get to my post of an editorial with her. Maybe tomorrow or something.
Karl Lagerfeld wrote and directed another Chanel short film, this time being shown Monday to guests to preview Chanel’s Cruise 2011 show today. Magdalena emulates Brigitte Bardot, which makes me feel that the part was originally supposed to be for Lara Stone. Abby Lee, looking adorable, channels Jane Birkin, while Freja emulates Mick Jagger. It focuses on the 70s-throwback party that I suppose the Cruise collection will reflect. I guess I’ll see as I review the line in just a moment. Also, is it me or do I find Baptiste a lot sexier on film than in photos. He still has that air about him that he knows he’s prettier than a unicorn, but maybe I’m just a cray-cray lunatic.