New York Fashion Week is THE fashion week in America, and I was lucky enough to work and attend for the third season in a row. I work every show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center and am fortunate enough to view most of those shows. In recent seasons it has become more of a spectacle than it has been in the past. You will no be walking around and notice the absurd amounts of street style bloggers and photographers wanting to snap your photo and along with them: the street style stars. More on that topic later.
Anyway, here are a few from my busy week to prove that I was there. I have more, but they’re really unnecessary to post.
Let me get this out immediately: Who styled Gucci’s show? What in the living hell was Frida Giannini thinking? Frida cited Angelica Huston, photographed by Bob Richardson, and Florence Welch of Florence + the Machine were here inspirations for this 70s collection of vibrant furs that would give Joseph and his amazing technicolor dreamcoat jealousy, stuffy styling, and flowing chiffon. This was Gucci’s 90th anniversary show and you’d think she’d flow and outdo last season’s jewel-toned and tribal wear. Negative.
Some pieces could really work separately, and at times I feel the styling sucked the soul out of pieces, but the coat Alana strutted in appeared as if she had stuffed her shaggy dog inside and it was just bursting to be free and prance away from this travesty. And Linnea’s purple jacket over that yellow fur number, I can quote a fellow user on Fashin saying, “so Big Bird sneaking out of Sesame Street to Atlantic City for the weekend chic.” If The Muppets and Sesame Street turned into flamboyant pimps, I’d say we hit the target. It pains me. The culottes paired with the leather, knee-high boots was what did it in for me. I couldn’t breathe just looking at that stuffy styling.
Now here is what I truly enjoyed. The flowing gowns is what saved the show. From Karmen’s luscious, red gown, Abbey’s sheer yellow, to the rest of the sheer, flowing floor-length pieces displayed pure elegance that counterbalanced the hard and exotic looks that came before them. Frida did herself a disservice and added the silk florals to the models. Some of them were pretty and added to the effect, luckily most were shrugs and other removable pieces of silk floral that will hopefully not distract from the beautiful pieces later.
And after all of this, there is something that keeps screaming in my brain that I really like this. Maybe it’s insanity and I’m developing schizophrenia. Only time will tell.
Our favorite times of the year always include the runways. Menswear just completed and some of our favorites include the pops of color at Bottega Veneta, the layers at Balmain, perfect coats and skinny trousers at Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana’s sequined jackets, the brilliance of Dries Van Noten, the Amish and David Lynch inspirations at Louis Vuitton, and I’m always a sucker for Lanvin and YSL.
The Thierry Mugler show, renamed Mugler, had a lot of hype with Nicola Formichetti , but as someone else had pointed out, it took three people to create that. A lot of the hype surrounding the show was from the soundtrack, a new release and remixed song from Lady Gaga. After all of the hype, I and many, were thoroughly disappointed by what was brought to the table. The masculine take on pearls were the highlight to me, but the rest could be thrown in the garbage to be honest. It was more spectacle and show and in the end bland. Not that I was expecting anything different.
Now to the glorious haute couture. Monday started off terribly boring and as the week progressed everything got more exciting. Galliano’s drama for Dior was ever present. Although it seems he’s been designing the same thing for quite a while now, his detailing is beautiful and the silhouettes are referential to the New Look and innovative within themselves. Chanel was a crystal dream, but do I really need to speak upon Lagerfeld’s behalf? Armani Privé was more futuristic than Mr. Armani has ever been, but no matter how far he goes in the future, it still seems slightly tired. Maybe it’s safe to say Anne Hathaway won’t be wearing Armani Privé at the Oscars. She’s co-hosting, so I’m sure she’ll have numerous changes, but it’s probably a safe bet that it won’t be in one of these.
Moving on. Valentino continued to grow with slightly less ruffles and lighter designs while Elie Saab rolled out another show of beautiful, yet yawn-inducing gowns, all with red carpet potential. Academy Awards viewers, if you pay attention to the red carpet, please place money somewhere that an Elie Saab gown will make it on the red carpet more than once. At least they’re pretty and not Oscar de la Renta. Finally, my beloved Givenchy. I don’t care what anyone ever says about Givenchy, but the detailing is so intricate and exquisite, there’s more to appreciate than really meets the eye. One of the dresses with the red, hand-cut sequins took roughly 6,000 hours to create. The Japanese-influenced collection makes my mouth salivate and is such a fluid evolution from last couture season. Swoon.
Will you tune in at 10/9c on CBS? I’ll be watching for Jessica Stam, Anja Rubik, Lily Donaldson, Constance Jablonski, Karolina, and maybe Magdalena. The Angels and models strut tonight with Katy Perry and Akon.
1) Could do without the Canadian Tuxedo and the vast majority of the platform sandals.
2) I don’t think I can ever find an ounce of love for Carmen Kass, and maybe that’s half the reason why I could never fully appreciate Michael Kors, but that ridiculous, apricot feathered frock is making me salivate, not to mention the abundant usage of black feathers. I adore them.
Boys & Girls of New York Fashion Week S/S 2011 | Video by Justin Wu | Models |
High Definition (HD)
How adorable is Karlie Kloss and the rest of the models who can’t lip sync or dance? Also, why did I have to be reminded of Marc Jacobs’s show. The literal interpretation was horrifying, it was something only Jodie Foster could love. I understood the YSL and Taxi Driver references, but the questionable usage of fabrics and the whole aesthetic. I’m at a lost for thoughts. I keep telling myself it did not happen/it’s not that bad, but here’s to hoping he’ll pull through with Louis Vuitton and eventual campaigns. It will grow on me, right? Right?
Everything about this show is so splendid. Besides the occasional Ralph Lauren, Americana-chic isn’t my immediate favorite, but this is absolutely refreshing already. Also, Karlie’s walk is particularly solid and precise in that red trench, she works it every single time.